Jean-Raymond got a call in late 2019 to meet with François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of Kering, he didn’t have visions of a creative directorship at a Kering brand like Bottega Veneta or Saint Laurent instead he began talking about a vision of another kind. For many of them, said Kethlyn White, the senior director of YFINY (though she is officially a Pyer Moss employee), “there was never enough access in the first place.” These issues are only more complicated for designers of color. Jean-Raymond almost lost his brand in 2017 after falling out with investors he said he had to sell most of his furniture to keep going. “It was only eight years ago, and a lot of those designers are gone now.” Names like Public School, Wes Gordon (who closed his own brand and is now at Carolina Herrera) and Sies Marjan.
It is not a myth to say that many designers start their companies from their personal bank accounts and credit cards and get impossibly overextended as they are blinded by the allure of fashion shows and potential investors.
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Students at schools like Central Saint Martins are celebrated for their creativity but not taught how to work with supply chains or spreadsheets or tax codes or the terrible economics of the industry. One of the biggest problems in fashion is not talent or ideas but building a business. “He grabs me, says in my ear, ‘I got you, give me a few, I’ll come back.’” “I’m like: ‘What is this guy doing? I just lost,’” Mr. Here’s what it did not involve: posting black squares on Instagram. Months earlier he and Kering, the French luxury group, had quietly begun working on a project called Your Friends in New York, conceived to support emerging designers of color and rebalance their lack of representation in fashion.īut it was a long-term idea and shrouded in mystery no one knew exactly what it was, and the founders weren’t talking, aside from a brief news release announcing its inception. “Everyone was saying we need to do something, we need to start something - Black this, Black that,” Mr. It does not store any personal data.In the summer of 2020, when the United States was being roiled by the aftermath of the George Floyd murder and businesses of all kinds were coming face to face with their own systemic racism, Kerby Jean-Raymond, the founder and designer of Pyer Moss, who has used his brand to shed light on Black history as well as police brutality, began to get a lot of calls. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
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